Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
